Paris Fashion Week: Get ready-to-wear sexy, seductive and spectacular clothes this winter
Facing a luxury spending slump, designers are pushing ‘beyond’ on all levels. Paris Fashion Week A/W 25 was awash with an array of concepts and intricate craftsmanship that defy neat trend buckets.The best fashion designers are always equipped with a remarkable compass that helps shape our emotional, aesthetic and style tempo. At Paris Fashion Week (PFW), with a mega schedule of 72 shows and 37 presentations, that compass was whirling.
History has been at the forefront as Victorian dandies were on display at McQueen and Dior, who paraded 18th-century style doublets. There were shape shifting silhouettes (cubist tailoring at Junya Watanabe, padded hip maxi skirts and giant ruffled Jacobean shoulders at Alaia) and a taste for splendour; whether that be bejewelled baroque jackets at Schiaparelli; snapper back lambskin coats and tailored shorts at Hermès, or a floor length carnation red shearling fur coat at Balenciaga.
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The sheer array of concepts, the intricacy of craftsmanship and myriad points of view defy neat trend buckets. There’s a commitment in Paris to the extraordinary, to transcendence and to the ultimate seduction of deep-pocketed clients and fashion fans alike. Facing a luxury spending slump, designers are pushing ‘beyond’ on all levels.
“I wanted to make things that can inspire, and that can never be replicated by fast fashion. The women in my life are lone stars - there’s no one else like them, and there could never be. I hope they, and all women, feel the same about these clothes,” said Daniel Roseberry at Schiaparelli.
It was a week of standout debuts. British designer Sarah Burton, at Alexander McQueen for 26 years, made her start at Givenchy, where her former mentor and boss Alexander McQueen, and before him, John Galliano, have triumphed in the creative director position.
Burton, who is adored for her storytelling prowess as well as her remarkable aptitude for dressing real women (diverse ages and body types) began with a stack of Hubert de Givenchy’s sketches and patterns that had been hidden between two walls at the original maison and were discovered in 2018. It gave Burton insight into the spirit of the atelier and the hand of one of fashion’s most gifted couturiers who coined the Bettina blouse and Audrey Hepburn’s little black dresses in Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
But rather than pay strict homage, Burton let her powerful imagination soar and presented a study in stripped back elegance, starting with the literal foundations. There were pointy 50s brassieres and knickers under flounced hemmed mesh dresses, segueing into back to front sculpted tuxedo jackets and gorgeous chinoiserie embroidered opera coats.
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